There are many ways to create your crochet shoes. To me this is the most basic shoe shape. This is both a how-to shape the crochet shoe as well as a pattern.
This basic shoe shape can be made very fitting and comfy. This is a good easy way to start on the crocheted shoe journey.
In the steps below, I will specify exact numbers/sizes. They are specifically for this example only. You will probably have different hook, shoe sizes, yarn used, etc.
FYI: In this example, I used 4mm hook with yarn that was approximately 8-10ply..
I am assuming you already know how to crochet and most of the terms are familiar to you.
The Construction Areas of the Basic Shoe
The photos below show the different sections to be considered. I made the shoe to the right in different colours to further illustrate the different sections. Sorry that some of the photos show various colours; I had to work this post over a multitude of samples.
Pattern for the Basic Shoe Shape
Toe/Dome Section
Foundation Row: magic ring, 6sc
• Tip:
If you find that the shoe is a bit pointy, you can start the magic ring with more stitches (eg. 10sts). And then increase accordingly to create the domed shape.
For example, if you started with 10 stitches, you would probably want to increase 10 stitch per row.
To create the dome shape, increase 6 stitches per row.
R1: end with => 12sts
R2: ==> 18sts
R3: ==> 24sts
Tip: As soon as you can, try what you have of the shoe on your foot. We want a fit that is close snug, keeping in mind that there will be some stretch when you wear it.
Front Part of Shoe
In the right most photo below, this will be green part.
We will work this straight (no increase) till we get to shaping the opening in the shoe upper.
With reference to the colourful sample: 12 Rows (24sts per row)
Note: You have to estimate length of your own shoes.
One of the photos below shows the approximate proportion relative to the foot.
Do not cut off yarn. Continue with shaping the top of the upper.
I recommend cutting the yarn here. You can see that the ugly line where rows begin/end is quite obvious. I want this hidden by putting it towards the sole (bottom).
So cut the yarn here.
Top Opening (curved shaping)
Before continuing, mark the opening for the upper part of the shoes, starting from where your last row ended.
You will start the curved top section directly opposite the ugly line indicated above.
Here, I have 6 stitches. And I will shape the curved opening over 3 rows.
Working with the 6sts in this example, the crochet symbols show the stitches to create the curve. After the 3 rows of curved shaping, you should have 18sts.
Back Part of Shoe
Now we will work the rest of the shoe till the heels. Make the heel higher for a better fit.
Here in this (colourful) shoe sample, I started with 18s and increased over 7 Rows.
R1: ==> 18s
R2: ==> 20s
R3: ==> 20s
R4: ==> 22s
R5: ==> 22s
R6: ==> 24s
R7: ==> 24s
Curving the Heel Section
The heel should be curved for a comfort fit.
Photo below shows the heel part of the shoe laid flat and the graphed stitches show how the shaping is achieved.
Sewing Up (Heel)
Cut off yarn and finish. Leave enough yarn to do the sewing.
Turn shoe inside out, so that the RS are facing each other.
Sew up the heel. The basic shoe shape is now finished. Just a little more tweaking (opt) before adding edging or cuff.
You can also bind together with slip stitch after you turn it inside out.
Edging around the Shoes
Now the basic shoe shape should be comfy and fitting. I have added height to the back of the shoe for a better fit. (Without it, it can feel as if the shoe is going to fall off, especially after a bit of wear.)
Below I provide more details (using the colourful shoe sample) about the edging around the opening and how I increased the back height of the shoe.
Optional: Adding Cuffs
You can carry on adding height/cuff to make a boot. I personally would recommend this as it again improves the fit and comfiness of the shoe. Below I show just one way of doing it. You can let your imagination run wild and do your own thing.
Here the cuffs shown here is made with a rib section, followed by a (modified) Astrakhan stitch section.
So let’s go ….
- dc row but decrease circumference by 1/4:
(3dc – 2dc tog) repeat - 3 rows of plain rib (here Plain Rib= (1dc, 1fpdc) rpt
- Work 5 rows of Ribbed Astrakhan stitch:Start Astrakhan stitch, but instead of plain dc every alternate row, we will continue with our “plain rib” pattern. Work this where the Astrakhan’s “fur” is pointing inside.
- Finish off and fold cuff down.
Optional: Adding Outer Soles
Below I have just tacked on the outer soles to see how it looks and whether it works. (It works!)
There are various soles you can use. Soles of flip-flops are very popular. Proper pre-cut outer soles are very hard to find (at the moment). Check places like Pinterest for more ideas on adding soles to your crocheted shoes.
jmo says
Wish you would’ve explained how to work the thermal stitch. This is literally the only slipper pattern I have been able to find and I have no idea how you did it. I tried a thermal stitch the only way I know (or can find instructions on) and it’s nothing like this. :/
Helena Asmus Lim says
Hi jmo, my tutorial on Thermal Stitch (sc) might be of use: https://www.clearlyhelena.com/strong-crochet-strap-how-to/